Mar 13
For full interview online, see NOIR magazine…
FashionBite is interviewed by upstart online magazine NOIR for its London Fashion Week special, see pages 30-31.
I talk about what’s big in fashion for SS11, who/what influences my personal style, my favourite fashion designers (footnote: interview was done pre-Galliano’s outburst!) and why style is not about following trends..
See Noir for the interview.
Hope you enjoy!
FashionBite xx
Mar 6
Louise Amstrup AW11
Julian J Smith AW11
Ashley Isham AW11
Bryce Aime AW11
Louise Gray AW11
Charlie Le Mindu AW11
Daring rich purple lips, smouldering eyes and futuristic matt flawless skin were popular looks among leading make-up artists at On|Off during London Fashion Week.
The head make-up artist at Louise Amstrup’s show, Ayami Nishimura, went for dark, defined eyes and vibrant, glossy plum lips on powdered skin.
For designer Ashley Isham, director of make-up for Maybelline New York Sharon Dowset played around with products, using dark eyeshadow to colour lips.
At Jena Theo’s catwalk make-up artists opted for dark, smokey eyes on a nude base to create a futuristic look. They also painted dramatic, thick black strips across models’ eyes and eyebrows.
Designer Julian J Smith turned the gothic look upside-down by pairing pale, powdered skin with long, vibrant blonde hair.
While at Falguni & Shane Peacock noted make-up artist Alex Bryne used Benefit products to create a rock ‘n roll style with elongated eyes and glossed skin.
Backstage at Bryce Aime stylists created a strong and modern look. Models had frosted, white powdered faces defined by grey cheekbones as well as black stripes across the eyebrow bone.
Breaking away from these emerging trends, designer Lousie Gray painted bright, multi-coloured polka dots on models faces, in keeping with her fun, fresh and colourful collection.
Hair styles included platinum blonde wigs by celebrity hair stylist Lyndell Mansfield, a two-foot graffitied Mohican at Charlie Le Mindu and slicked-backed up-styles. Looks were created using hair brand favourites such as L’Oreal, GHD and Tigi.
FashionBite reporter Amy Golding xx
Mar 2
Singer/songwriter Paloma Faith was a regular on the front row at On|Off during London Fashion Week.
FashionBite caught up with her after the Ashley Isham show. See FashionBite’s post Ashley Isham AW11 Catwalk Report.
Faith said: “The dresses in Ashley Isham’s collection were fab and there are definitely pieces that I could see myself in. His collection was colourful. It is always nice to see a colour used in autumn/ winter shows.
“However, I am into 1950 styles and so normally only go for pencil or fuller-length skirts. Some of the pieces in this collection were a bit too short to me.
“Ashley Isham’s use of hats and floral headdresses in the show was absolutely great. I would definitely like to try and one of these creations.
“I am going to a lot of shows at this year’s fashion week. I have a long list of designers that I want to see.”
Paloma Faith also attended the Pam Hogg AW11 show at On|Off, see FashionBite’s post Pam Hogg AW11 Catwalk Show.
After the show, Faith told On|Off director Lee Lapthorne: “This was my favourite show of all London Fashion week. It was amazing, it was most in keeping with what I’d wear on stage. I love the On|Off venue.”
FashionBite reporters Amy Golding and Emily Seares xx
Mar 2
FashionBite caught up with American singer Beth Ditto backstage at the Julian J Smith show at On|Off during London Fashion Week.
Ditto, a huge fan and friend of the designer, was also celebrating her 30th birthday that night. Cocktail in hand, she talked to FB about her thoughts on the show and what product she can’t live without…!
How long have you known Julian J Smith?
We’ve been close for about three years now.
What do you like about his designs?
Anyone that does something different all of the time is onto a good thing.
What did you think of his AW11 collection and catwalk?
Muting his prints this season has worked. The collection features a consistent use of colour and has a strong story. I don’t know a lot about fashion but I know what I like. One thing I love is crochet over black or lace over black, which are looks that feature in this collection.
What do you want from his AW11 collection?
I would love the burgundy dress with the panelling – if it comes in a size that fits me.
What’s the fashion item you can’t live without?
I can’t live without my Mac liquid eyeliner. It doesn’t matter what I am wearing as long as I have my eyeliner on.
What did you think about the make-up and hairstyling used for this show?
The platinum blonde wigs worn by the models were fabulous – but it won’t be a look I’ll be copying. I make an awful blonde – even though its actually my natural hair colour.
Have you received any birthday pressies yet?
I’ve only be given two presents so far today, a book and a bottle of champagne [the bubbly was a present from On|Off's director Lee Lapthorne].
What are you plans for tonight?
To party! It’s great that my 30th has fallen on a Saturday in London Fashion Week. Let’s see where the night takes me!
LONDON FASHION WEEK – JULIAN J SMITH CATWALK REPORT
Photography Geoff Pugh.
Julian J Smith drew an impressive crowd to his autumn/winter 11 show at On|Off this season.
The collection featured contrasting textures of leather, wool, crochet and patent which were layered against a palette of grey, black and blood wine red with splashes of teal.
Huge platform buckled biker rock boots added a harder, gothic rock edge to the look, along with patent leather panels which were used to dissect dresses in the collection. Key pieces included a floor length wine red dress, with printed front and back panels and a textured dress made of grey wool, black leather and teal panels with black crochet overlay.
Julian J Smith told FashionBite backstage before the show: “I’m known for bold graphic prints, but in this collection the prints have been muted down. I have used darker tones and the collection has a gothic, twisted feel. I was inspired by films such as Sleepy Hollow and Blair Witch Project. However, I haven’t gone too gothic. The collection still features plenty of colour.”
FashionBite reporters Amy Golding and Emily Seares xx
Feb 27
Designer Olivia Rubin talks to FashionBite
What was the inspiration for your AW11 collection (pictured above)?
For autumn/winter, the Olivia Rubin woman transforms into a ‘femme fatale’. I wanted to create a more sophisticated look with an added hint of youth grunge. I was inspired by women now and the empowerment of the 90’s, ultimately a woman that feels both sexy and confident.
How has the collection evolved from your SS11 offer?
Summer and winter both have a very different mood for me and I try and reflect this in the collections. SS11 was all about fun and fresh looks for an everyday girl whereas AW11 has more serious overtones for a glamorous independent woman. It’s almost like there has been a transition from girl to ‘femme fatale’ from spring/summer to autumn/winter.
Where do you find inspiration for each collection?
I get inspiration from all sources especially the creative arts. For AW11 I looked to early 90’s film and music videos and combined this with some new silhouettes and prints that I’d had in my mind for a while. I had the idea of a sexy ‘femme’ in my mind and grew the collection around this image.
Can you describe a few of the key pieces from the AW11 collection?
Charlotte – A long monochrome print column dress with a contrasting draped top-instant chic appeal!
Holly – A 3D brick print sheer shirt with lace detailing-sexy with a grunge element.
Sophie Speech Bubble – A knitwear sweater (part of the new knitwear line) with a graphic speech bubble print all over-classic kitsch!
Who would you love to see wearing your clothing?
I’ve seen some great women in my collections from celebrities to loyal customers and family and friends! Celebrity wise I love Rachel Bilson-the cool laidback look she exudes and also new girl on the block Eliza Doolittle-her playfulness and use of colour.
Describe the Olivia Rubin label in 3 words?
Quirky, feminine and timeless.
You’ve designed capsule collections for ASOS, My-Wardrobe and Very, what’s next for Olivia Rubin?I have my new printed shoe and accessories line for Dune coming out in March, which I’m looking forward to. I’m in the process of working with some other exciting companies for future projects-I think it’s important to collaborate, it keeps the ideas flowing!
FashionBite xx
Feb 23
Photography Geoff Pugh
Catwalk Report
Pam Hogg’s AW11 show at On|Off drew a who’s who of rock royalty including Siouxsie Sioux, Boy George, Paloma Faith, Alison Mosshart, Roisin Murphy, Hamish McAlpine, Carole Siller, Jaime Winstone, Sue Webster, Tim Noble, Princess Julia, Jodie Harsh, Pandamonia and Hanna Hanra. Models Alice Dellal and Daisy Lowe also modelled on the catwalk.
The opening of the collection had a Russian Gestapo military feel with long leather jackets, brown leather strap embellishment, huge PVC wedge heels, buckles and matching over-sized bags. Knitwear also made an appearance, alongside high-waisted trousers, military button detailing and cape silhouettes.
A series of Hogg’s brightly coloured signature catsuits and dresses followed in a combination of yellows/oranges/purples, all made with a pine wood print fabric- a continuation of her SS11 collection. Key pieces included an oversized multi-coloured fur coat with flashes of green, luminous pink, acid yellow, orange, lilac and brown.
Bird imagery featured heavily throughout the show, including a film which was projected on to the back wall of the catwalk as models emerged. A nude model was held together with leather straps as stuffed eagles were piled on top of her head and model Daisy Lowe closed the show wearing a dazzling gold sequinned dress with a bird’s nest resting on her head.
FashionBite xx
Feb 22
Charlie Le Mindu’s graphic AW11 show opened in darkness. As twisted electronic music blasted out, a lone, nude model appeared on the runway dripping in blood red paint and wearing a sign balanced on her head emblazoned with the word ‘Violence.’ The scene was set.
Presenting his third collection at On|Off, Le Mindu took us on a journey to the sexual underground of wartime Berlin, including huge graffiti sprayed Mohicans and an eagle headdress with long flowing lace trains dipped in blood.
Inspired by the glamour and grit of the Berlin brothel ‘Salon kitty,’ the film ‘Carrie’ and the ostensibly repressed era of the Second World War, Le Mindu said he explored the extremes of femininity and sodomy in his shocking show. Stained lace, transparent PVC and off-white fur were combined with masks, metals, military and graphiti art spray paint, as the show closed to the harrowing sound of squeeling pigs at the slaughterhouse. It was phenomenal.
After the catwalk, we caught up with On|Off sponsor Catherine McMahon, portfolio manager for L’Oreal Professionnel, who said: “It was great to see Charlie Le Mindu using hair so creatively at On|Off today. He contrasted an extravagant mohican with classic French plats. He used hair fringing on outfits. Hair is a fashion accessory and our partnership with On|Off helps our stylists explore this. On|Off’s creativity is reflected by our stylists, creating a fantastic working environment.”
Naomi Scroggins, of L’Oreal Professionnel products, added: “We’ve been working with On|Off for a long time as we have a great synergy. We both want to support emerging talent. Many of our stylists who begin their catwalk careers at On|Off go on to become head stylists for leading designers. After working at On|Off stylists return to their salons inspired.”
Charlie Le Mindu was the recipient of On|Off’s Visionary Award this AW11 season. He also presented an installation at On|Off, collaborated with On|Off’s art direction and worked on a collaborative t-shirt collection.
I chatted to the beautiful Daphne Guiness after the show (serious girl crush now!), who said: “Charlie Le Mindu is so inspiring. I thought the show was incredibly interesting. It represents everything I love about London. I have admired Charlie’s work for a long time and worked with him previously on shoots.”
Backstage Beauty
When bottles of blood and a children’s paddling pool are found backstage you know controversial Charlie Le Mindu has arrived in the studio.
The designer took on the role of butcher behind the scenes at his AW11 show. “Charlie, do you want to do the blood?” yelled a stylist. Wearing a beige apron, Le Mindu rolled up his sleeves and prepared to get dirty.
A shrieking model stood naked in the paddling pool while Le Mindu drenched her in blood – theatrical rather than real – we think. Stylists cried “who wants some!” as models, dressed in gas masks and bird wings, backed away from the pool. Elsewhere body paint was applied to models’ skin to create an eerie mannequin-like look.
In another room, a model with a two-foot mohican had her face pressed sideways on a table whilst stylists smothered her hair in L’Oreal Professionnel holding products. Le Mindu then spray-painted the finished hair creation with graffiti.
FashionBite reporters Emily Seares and Amy Golding xx
Feb 22
Louise Gray’s fun, fresh and frenetic AW11 collection was a riot of graphic colour, tartan texture and layered fabrics. Gray said: “I took a spot, a stripe a check and then played around.”
Tartan checks, which formed the foundation of many of the pieces, came from the plaids and tartans of Gray’s home in the North East of Scotland. Garments were constructed to have a 3D effect, which was core to the collection, appearing on oversized mohair coats with gold foil spots. Layering is also strong for autumn/winter, a red bomber jacket with mohair plaid is overlaid with a pixellated print of plaid.
The shirt is a key piece for Gray’s AW11 look, not worn as a blouse or dress however, it is intended to be the perfect long layer on which to show the effect of Gray’s pixellated patterns.
Gray’s knitwear deconstructed the Aran sweater, with contrasting panels of red and green. Dresses were made from oversized circles squares and rectangles, while Indian beading added another layer to draped dresses overlaid with plaid.
The front row of the Louise Gray show read like a who’s who in the fashion world including British Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman, internationally renowned fashion journalist Sarah Mower and world leading fashion commentator Colin Dowell.
Photography Geoff Pugh.
Backstage Beauty
Backstage at Louise Gray was a circus. Literally.
Models with polka dot-painted faces changed into the clown-inspired collection and donned larger-than-life gold whistle earrings.
Stylist helped models perform the acrobatics necessary to put on their outfits. The team hoisted girls into the air to then drop them into the spotted knee-high, heeled wellington boots they would later walk down the catwalk in.
Make-up, by James O’Riley at Premier and the Mac Pro team, was playful. Faces were dotted with colourful spots on a simple matt base.
Hair, by L’Oreal Professional, was backcombed, pulled up into ponytails and finished off with square-shaped quiffs.
After grabbing a sneaky peak of all the action, photographers and journalists were promptly ushered into front-of-house to give stylists the space to strap party-balloon headpieces to each model’s head.
FashionBite reporters Emily Seares and Amy Golding xx
Feb 21
Louise Amstrup’s AW11 collection was clear and structured, with bold colour blocking in a palette of black, grey, navy, dusty blue, maroon and acid yellow amid slashes of patent leather.
Key pieces included a coarse wool coat in melange grey with patent leather detailing, a patent leather dress with wool and georgette side panelling and a dirty plum merino dress with panes of prints on silk and patent leather.
Drawing inspiration from American youth rebellion, the collection called ‘Born Bad’ channelled the character of Mallory Knox in Natural Born Killers. Knox, played by the iconic real-life radical Juliette Lewis, serves as the muse for Amstrup this autumn/winter.
Fabulous 1940’s, gangster-style hats, designed by Noel Stewart, were worn with skull caps tied around the neck to create a Quaker sub-text, alluding to the theme of religion and rebellion.
Louise Amstrup said: “I wanted to create strong statement pieces. The collection is inspired by rebel movements like Zoot Suit riots in 1940′s America. I wanted to explore the theme of rebel as a religion.”
Eponymous shoe designer Behnaz Kanani, who attended the show, said: “I would wear all of the collection, it is light, colourful and I have loved everything I’ve seen. The space is amazing, it’s very private and cosy and I love the fact it’s on Mercer Street, it has a real New York kind of feel.”
Backstage Beauty
Backstage, Louise Amstrup is busy readying her rebel-inspired collection, which kicked off Saturday’s show line up at London Fashion Week.
Luckily, Louise and her team were doing a great job of keeping any potential uprisings under control. In fact, considering there was only 10 minutes to go, the atmosphere in wardrobe was astoundingly serene.
Perhaps the team hadn’t had time for their morning coffee yet – bagging the first slot on Saturday involved an early start.
Despite this, everyone behind the scenes of the first show looked fresh faced and ready for action.
Heading up the make-up team was Ayami Nishimura, who created a bold look with dark matt eyes and high-gloss rich plum lips.
She said: “Louise wanted a strong, statement make-up style but portrayed elegantly. We went for defined eyes and vibrant lips and little else – only powder to give the skin a matt finish.”
Nishimura added the high-definition gloss aimed to compliment Louise’s use of patent leather in her collection.
FashionBite Reporters Emily Seares and Amy Golding xx
Feb 21
GUEST BLOGGER: Freelance Journalist Amy Golding
Ashley Isham’s ‘Enchanted Forest’ themed collection had an air of magic and wonder this season at On|Off, London Fashion Week.
It featured a palette of forest green and turquoise, floral prints and rich velvet fabrics. Models paraded down the catwalk in crafted ‘flower crowns’, which enhanced the mischievous, impish styling.
The collection was a darker extention of the designer’s earlier SS11 collection, ‘East of Eden’,’ which also featured a host of floral designs. Isham said: “You will see some familiar silhouettes in the structured pieces but in richer fabrics and trim.”
Isham said the collection was inspired by things you could find in a magical enchanted world. “I wanted my models to look like they had just returned from a journey to this forest,” he said.
In contrast to the rich fabrics, Isham showcased flowing, floor-length dresses in sliver birch and lilac. The collection also featured sharply tailored black jackets and draped jerseys. Detailing on garments included scale-like sequins, black jewelled and beaded shoulder embellishment.
Backstage Beauty
At Ashley Isham, backstage was on fire with frenzied final preparations for the show. Stylists, make-up artists and hairdressers sprinted around pinning, painting and spritzing models, continuing even as they queued at the catwalk.
The hustle and bustle created a contagious buzz behind the scenes – a perfect way to end the first day of London Fashion Week at On|Off!
Director of Make-Up for Maybelline New York Sharon Dowset remained astoundingly cool amid the mania. She even encouraged models to apply their own mascara! “I want the girls to get a feel for the Maybelline brand,” she explained.
Dowset played around with products, using dark eyeshadow to colour lips. “Ashley always wants to create a tough but cool image and to use strong eye colour. To mix it up a little, this show we are going for strong eyebrows and lips,” she said.
Sexy ponytails, created using GHD products, completed the look. As model’s hit the runway, hairdressers were left to pack away an awe-inspiring collection of GHD hair straighters sprawled across every surface insight.
FashionBite xx
Linen Theme by The Theme Foundry
Copyright © 2012 . All rights reserved.
